Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Mark Bittman's Lighter, Richer Corn Bread

Here I am, sitting in the evening dark on my birthday, sporting my birthday presents: a jeans skirt I bought for myself, new brown flip-flops from Sannali, and How To Cook Everything Vegetarian by Mark Bittman, the green bible of vegetarian cooking. Since beginning to cook vegetables, I have acquired three new vegetable cookbooks, all of which give a different spin to the vegetable quest.

Today Dr. A. asked me to make some cornbread for her dinner for the missionaries. They love the Simplex! Or is it that the Simplex loves cooking for them? The night before I had been flipping through Bittman and thinking about the Moosewood cornbread, so I decided to try out Bittman's cornbread and compare the two. I made the "lighter, richer" version offered by Bittman, but I'll give the standard version here and the modifications.

Ingredients:

1 1/4 cups buttermilk, milk, or yogurt (or 1 1/4 cupes milk plus 1 tablespoon white vinegar; see Step 2), plus more as needed
2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups medium-grind cornmeal
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar, plus more if you like sweet corn bread
1 egg

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. If you're using buttermilk, milk, or yogurt, ignore this step. If not, make the soured milk: warm the milk gently-- 1 minute in the microwave is sufficient, just enough to take the chill off-- and add the vinegar. Let it rest while you prepare the other ingredients.

3. Put the butter in a medium ovenproof skillet or an 8 inch square baking pan over medium heat; heat until good and hot, about 2 minutes, then turn off the heat. Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl. Mix the egg into the buttermilk. Stir the liquid into the dry ingredients (just enough to combine); if it seems too dry, add another tablespoon or two of buttermilk. Pour the batter into the prepared skillet or pan, smooth out the top if necessary, and put in the oven.

4. Bake about 30 minutes, until the top is lightly browned and the sides have pulled away from the pan; a toothpick inserted into the center will come out clean. Serve hot or warm.

Lighter, Richer Corn Bread: Use 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) or butter (do not use other fat). Increase the sugar to 1/4 cup. Use 2 eggs; stir their yolks into the milk and beat the whites until stiff but not dry, the gently stir them into the prepared batter after the yolks and milk have been incorporated.

Corny Corn Bread: You have some options here: Add 1 cup of fresh or frozen corn kernels or about a cup or creamed corn to the liquid ingredients in Step 3.

Corn and Bean Bread: Use 2 eggs and 1 cup buttermilk or soured milk; omit the white flour. Stir 1 1/2 cups well-cooked white beans (canned are fine), pureed and strained, into the milk-egg mixture before adding to the dry ingredients. (Mark Bittman loves this one.)

Personally, I found the texture of the corn bread a bit disappointing and the flavor too sweet and not salty enough, although I think that the average eater would be pleased enough with the cornbread. The dinner guests ate it with enthusiasm. I used half buttermilk, half yogurt and the full measure of sugar, but only 2 T. of butter. The buttermilk added an interesting flavor, and the butter melted in the pan gave the crust a very rich crispiness that was tasty. But I think I'm just too habituated to the coarser, simpler corn bread of my youth. Sigh.

I think it's time to go back to the Moosewood. Or home.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Pepper & Onion Shortcake


This recipe is also from the New Moosewood Cookbook by Katzen, and drove the making of the cornbread, see below. After a few days of perpetual exhaustion right before finals later this week, I needed something warm and comforting. I also had some chopped vegetables left over from Mormon Med Student dinner on Sunday, so in the spirit of Vegetable Tuesday I went looking for a recipe that would use the vegetables I had while satisfying my need for sustenance. In the end, I was surprised by homeyness of the simple combination of cornbread and sauteed vegetables. Why did we never try this at home? I think the coarser cornbread that my mom makes would suit this dish even better. After eating, I went and studied for three and a half hours without falling asleep and came home and did my Lenten exercise while watching The Office.

Ingredients:

1 batch corn bread (see previous post)
2 Tbs. olive oil, butter, or margarine
2 cups thinly sliced onion
1/2 tsp. salt
3 medium sized bell peppers (any color), in thin strips
1/2 tsp. cumin (optional)
black pepper and cayenne to taste
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup yogurt at room-temperature (optional: add 1 to 2 Tbs. sour cream)
freshly minced dill, if available
paprika

Directions:

1) Make a batch of corn bread ahead of time. You can warm it in a 300F oven while preparing the topping, or toast corn bread chunks or slices just before serving. This makes a perfect lunch on a chilly day, especially when served with Spicy Tomato Soup.

2) Heat oil (or melt butter or margarine) in a medium-large skillet.

3) Add onion and salt, and saute over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until onion is very soft and beginning to brown.

4) Add bell peppers, cumin, black pepper, and cayenne, and continue to saute until the peppers are tender (about 10 minutes more.)

5) Add garlic, and cook just a minute or two more. Remove from the heat and stir in the yogurt (and optional touch of sour cream).

6) Serve immediately, spooned over split chunks of warmed or toasted corn bread and garnished with dill and paprika.

Having cut my vegetables previously, they were mostly diced instead of thinly sliced, but I don't think that affected their cooking time or meshing with the cornbread too much. But then, I haven't had the original. I used Mayan Sweet Onion, a green and yellow bell pepper (it would have been prettier with red), and Italian sweet pepper, some celery, and a little bit of green onion along with fresh garlic and dill. I thought about adding some mushrooms, and refrained. I seasoned it according to the recipe, adding a just a bit of black pepper and a dash of cayenne.

This might be another recipe that's forgiving of some vegetable mix-and-match, but I can imagine some larger vegetables (like broccoli) being hard to mix with the cornbread.

New Moosewood Basic Cornbread

From Mollie Katzen's The New Moosewood Cookbook.

Fortunately, I was raised on bread made with home ground corn, with a coarser meal. Unfortunately, this means I will never be completely happy with cornbread made from any other ground corn. I find the grind too fine and the bread texture too cakey.

Nevertheless, this recipe produces a cornbread that in the absence of home satisfies the cornbread craving. It's better than most other recipes I've tried, and even better than using store-bought cornmeal in the original family recipe. This cornbread is sweeter than our family recipe, but that can be remedied by omitting the honey or sugar. Today I used buttermilk, which I had left over from the cupcakes.

Ingredients:


butter or margarine, for the pan
1 cup cornmeal
1 cup flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup buttermilk or yogurt
1 egg
3 Tbs. honey
3 Tbs. melted butter or margarine

Directions:

1) Preheat oven to 350F. Grease an 8-inch square pan (or a 9- or 10- inch cast iron skillet) with butter or margarine.

2) Combine the dry ingredients in a medium-sized bowl. Combine the wet ingredients (including sugar or honey) separately. Stir the wet mixture in to the dry, mixing just enough to thoroughly combine. Spread into the prepared pan.

3) Bake for 20 minutes, or until the center is firm to the touch. Serve warm, or at room temperature.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Mediterranean Squash Stew

The thing that is different from medical school and high school is that in medical school you NEVER get to choose your lab partner. NEVER. EVER. But fortunately I landed some pretty hip kids for "Fun With Food" (organized by the ever-so-enthusiastic M.J.) anyway.

Too much studying this week to cook vegetables on my own, so fortunately this cooking lab came up to fill my vegetable requirement for the week. This recipe from Cooking Together Family Meals, a publication of the Finger Lakes Region and Division of Nutritional Sciences, Cornell University.

The idea is that this can be modified to fit any dietary restrictions imaginable. Vegan. Diabetic. High Cholesterol. Maybe even phenylketonuria. Here's the basic recipe:

Ingredients:

3 cups diced butternut squash
2 cups chopped kale
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 clove garlic
2 tsp fat
2 cups canned diced tomatoes
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1 tsp mustard
1 tsp oregano
1 tsp salt
2 cups grain

Directions:

1. Wash and peel squash; cut in half, spoon out seeds, cut into 1/2 inch cubes. Wash kale and remove tough stems; roll and slice into shreds or chop finely. Chop onions. Mince garlic.

2. Heat oil in frying pan on mediu. Add onion and garlic; saute 2 to 3 minutes, or until the onion is soft.

3. Stir in squash, tomatoes, lemon juice, brown sugar, mustard, oregano, and salt. Cover pan and cook 10 to 15 minutes, or until squash is tender. Add water, as needed.

4. Add rice/grain and kale. Cover and cook another 5 minutes.


We modified as follows:

-- Tripled the garlic
-- Used olive oil for fat (lots of mono unsaturated fats like omega threes, lowers your LDL (bad cholesterol) maybe raises your HDL (good cholesterol))
-- Doubled the mustard
-- Doubled the oregano
-- Doubled the salt
-- Added some pepper
-- Used 1 C. lentils and 1 C. couscous
-- Added finely chopped sweet potatoes
-- Stole Mrs. Dash (2 packets) and hot sauce (2 packets) from cafeteria, added cayenne pepper stolen from Mexican-patient table, and stirred. Soup so much more delicious. Yum yum. Oops, cheated on the assignment, but what good soup!

Seriously, this soup was surprisingly healthy and delicious. Our soup got all eaten up fast. If I ever had... kale? and squash? at the same time?.... I would totally make this soup again. (But with some cumin. Definite lack of cumin. And maybe minus the hot sauce.)